How Much Exfoliation Is Too Much?
The urge to scrub, scrub, and scrub, with the idea that “if only I exert a little more effort, my acne will go away,” is quite common. Back when people mistakenly believed that acne was caused by being dirty, overzealous scrubbing seemed to make sense. But we know so much more about the skin and acne today! Read on to get answers to questions like “Can you exfoliate too much with acne?” or “How often should you exfoliate if you have acne?” to understand the best way to go about it!
Why Exfoliation For Acne?
Let’s remember why we exfoliate in the first place. Exfoliation helps remove dead skin cells that make up the outermost layer of the skin, encouraging cellular renewal and revealing newer, smoother, more even skin texture beneath. Acne-prone skin produces roughly 4-5x more dead skin cells than non-acneic skin types. It also has fewer enzymes that naturally encourage healthy cell turnover, causing it to hold onto dead skin cells. This hyperkeratinization or retention hyperkeratosis sets the stage for breakouts. In addition, the oil of acne sufferers tends to be thicker and stickier than most, due to higher triglyceride and lower linoleic acid levels, which trigger inflammation. Exfoliation helps eliminate the pore-clogging oil, dead skin cells, and debris that occur with acne-prone skin. It also helps counteract the slower cell renewal experienced with age. The skin interprets this as a mild injury and sends a signal to the deeper layers to speed up cell production to replace the removed skin cells with new, healthier skin. In addition, it enables deeper, more effective penetration of active ingredients, expediting skin repair.
Frequency & Type Of Exfoliation
The ideal frequency of exfoliation varies depending on the skin type, condition, and the exfoliation method used. For example, thicker, oilier skin types can typically exfoliate more frequently and with mightier means, whereas thinner, drier skin types need to do the minimal amount, with gentler options. Some skin types, like those prone to redness, sensitivity, or dryness, may need more time to recover or a gentler approach overall. As the exfoliation process affects the skin barrier, repeating exfoliation too soon or with methods that are not compatible with your skin, may sensitize or dehydrate the skin surface, leaving you vulnerable to environmental aggressors. When in doubt, assessing your skin’s tolerance with a patch test is advisable. There are a number of methods of exfoliation to choose from. Physical exfoliation, also called mechanical exfoliation, is one of the easiest and most popular forms of exfoliation, including scrubs and polishes with beads or granules, loofahs or abrasive pads, ultrasonic devices, brushes, microdermabrasion, etc.
Chemical exfoliation refers to both natural and synthetically derived acids and enzymes. The most popular types of acids are AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) like Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid, and Salicylic Acid, a BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acids) recognized by the FDA as the best acne-fighting acid. AHAs and BHAs are keratolytic, which means they break down dead skin cells. While some exfoliating AHA and BHA formulations for acne can be harsh and unsuitable for daily use, naturally sourced forms are more skin-friendly and have added benefits as follows:
- Salicylic Acid, as a fat-soluble BHA, has the ability to penetrate through the oil into the follicle, to better manage bacteria and dead skin cell buildup associated with acne.
- Caviar Lime (Microcitrus Australasica) Fruit Extract, a newer natural skin care ingredient, is a naturally rich AHA source used throughout the ProCorrective® Clear-Control Collection. It doesn’t strip away the skin’s natural moisture and provides powerful antioxidant free radical protection, helping reduce the effects of environmental stress and UV damage – all without irritation.
It also prevents lines, wrinkles, and dullness by improving ionic exchanges and increasing calcium concentrations in the skin that decline with age, keeping skin youthful-looking and clearer at the same time!
- Glycolic Acid from sugarcane is the smallest molecule of all AHAs.
It deeply penetrates for maximum cellular renewal, reduces the thickening of the outermost skin layers, illuminates, and enhances the benefits of other exfoliants.
- Lactic Acid naturally occurs in the skin as a vital part of the Natural Moisturizing
Factor (NMF). In skincare, this naturally antiseptic acid derived from milk, beer, pickles, and other sources, is used to help keep skin moisturized, leaving it glowing and dewy.
- Phytic Acid, naturally found in rice and some cereals, helps stimulate cell turnover, smoothing and reducing the appearance of pores, while evening skin tone.
When Is Exfoliation Over-Exfoliation
Over-exfoliation occurs with misuse or overuse of exfoliants. Exfoliants used too often, aggressively, or with methods inappropriate for your skin can compromise the skin barrier and sabotage your other efforts. What does over exfoliated skin look like? Redness, dryness, discomfort, irritation, flaking, peeling, cracking, inflamed rash-like bumps, or more breakouts are signs you have gone overboard. But, a reaction may not mean you have the wrong type of exfoliant. It may just indicate that you used it too aggressively or often for your particular skin type or condition. That is not to say that all methods are suitable for everyone. Sensitive skin types will do better with products that contain perfectly spherical, polished grains or granules, such as Jojoba wax beads or micronized walnut shell powder, while allowing the products to do their job. You don’t need to exert extra pressure to see results!
Wondering, “How many times per week should I exfoliate with acne?” Using exfoliants the right number of times per week is key! Most oily, acne prone skin types can exfoliate much more often than sensitive acne prone skin types who should exfoliate less frequently. Fortunately, certain formulas are designed to be gentle enough for daily use, which helps take the guesswork out of this conundrum. The ProCorrective® Clear-ControlExfoliator is a dual-action cleanser and exfoliant-in-one with two forms of exfoliation perfectly calibrated for just this purpose. With just the right amount of Jojoba beads to serve as a physical exfoliant, it gently lifts away dead cells and surface impurities. These skin-softeners are combined with Salicylic Acid (also featured in the Clear-Control Blemish Treatment and Clear-Control Moisturizer) to slough away the accumulation of dead skin cells, dirt, oil, and other debris that threaten to clog your pores.
Since post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation can occur with acne, the blemish treatment also includes Lactic Acid and Phytic Acid to help prevent and even out skin tone on the spot! The non comedogenic moisturizer features Glycolic Acid, too, completing this innovative acne system for exceptionally comprehensive pore clearing. Note: If you experienced issues with Salicylic Acid and are leery, know that the pH of the formula and the source of the acid may have been to blame, not the ingredient itself! Pevonia sources from Willow bark and crafts formulas that work in harmony with the skin’s pH levels, setting our acne care products apart from drugstore and other mass-produced formulas. But as always, patch test if you are concerned.
How to Treat Over-Exfoliated Skin
If you have any of the symptoms of overkill exfoliation, stop using anything with exfoliating granules, acids, enzymes, retinoids, and even your beloved Vitamin C. Don’t assume which products have them and which ones don’t. Read ingredient lists, as these actives can be in your cleansers, toners, scrubs, treatments, masks, moisturizers, and even some sunscreens and makeup. It is essential to use milder products and ensure your skin stays moisturized and protected for about a month to allow your skin barrier to regenerate. Steer clear of potentially irritating ingredients, choosing Sulfate Free, Alcohol Free, Fragrance Free, Paraben Free, and Formaldehyde Free natural skin care products instead. Soothing formulas for sensitized skin with ingredients like Chamomile, Horse Chestnut, Allantoin, Calendula, and Aloe, and moisturizing Vitamin E, Safflower Seed Oil, and Panthenol are just the recovery care your skin needs!
The naturally antiseptic Soothing Propolis Concentrate is an excellent acne treatment for sensitive skin and a staple for adult acne products that’s sure to be your skin’s long-term friend even after it heals! Cool compresses may be helpful too! Once your skin has settled down, you can reintroduce exfoliating products with a more light-handed, gradual approach. You can ramp up slowly, using them once or twice a week for a couple of weeks, then three times a week for several more, and so on, until you find your sweet spot. If you know in advance your skin tends to react, choose acne products for sensitive skin, with ingredients like soothing Zinc Chloride and Mallow. Zinc Chloride naturally derived from the mineral Zincite helps control excess bacteria and supports skin repair, gently resolving breakouts. Emollient Mallow with antioxidant skin-repairing vitamins and calming properties, moisturizes and reduces irritation.
If you’ve overdone it and want to get back to a calmer, clearer complexion, visitFind A Spa for an oasis near you offering Pevonia for an in-depth consultation for your ideal products and a soothing Plantomer Treatment or Oxy-Vital Mask Treatment. Then, after your skin has regained serenity, maintain skin health with our ProCorrective® Clear-Control Treatment, YouthRenew™ Hydra-Glow Peel, Lacto-Flora Peel, or SpaTeen® Blemished Skin Treatment.
