Q: What products are “musts” to include in a skincare routine?

A: As a professional skin therapist, breaking down a skincare regimen into a few “must-haves” is challenging as there are essential skincare products that create healthy skin when used together. However, most professionals agree that five basic products should be used daily for optimal skin health. These include:

• A water-soluble cleanser.
• A versatile, moisturizing toner to be used as a classic toner and a refreshing facial mist.
• A serum formulated to address particular skin concerns while preserving moisture.
• A moisturizer targeted for specific skin types and conditions.
• A mineral-based moisturizing SPF.

Many people embrace this type of regimen and follow their provider’s step-by-step directives, but not everyone feels comfortable with this many products and may become overwhelmed. So how do we advise which products are non-negotiable “must-haves”? In the spa environment, performing a thorough consultation helps us discover our guest’s lifestyle and product sophistication, preventing them from purchasing more products than they will use, which will become buried in the bottom bathroom drawer, also known as the “product graveyard.” One of the most important questions to consider is, “How many products do I use in the morning and how many in the evening?” I recommend you start with the same number and then sample two additional products that address your specific concerns and help improve your current skin condition.

Skincare programs are not “one size fits all,” so basing your regimen on your comfort level and product sophistication will help you stay consistent and achieve optimal results. For example, if you only use soap every morning and evening, I recommend a foaming cleanser and a lightweight moisturizer to balance your skin and would educate you about the damage soap can do. I would also suggest an SPF - adding this one product to this regimen is a small manageable change! Once your skin is balanced, you can begin to incorporate one product at a time to target other concerns. But, if you have mature skin and use a milky cleanser, scrub, and moisturizer, again, I recommend the same number of products you are currently using and sample two other products to implement into your routine as follows:

• A water-soluble, milky cleanser that can remove make-up and thoroughly cleanse the skin.
• A gentle exfoliant, enzyme, or glycolic acid peeling cream, depending on your sensitivity. It’s important to know how scrubs work in comparison to exfoliating AHA’s and enzymes and how the latter will improve how the skin looks and feels and be less likely to cause irritation if used as directed.
• A moisturizer containing SPF that specifically targets your concerns to complete the regimen.

Adding a serum to this regimen is easily done by using the serum on the days you do NOT use the exfoliant, keeping the usage at three products.


Q: I know I’m supposed to avoid artificial fragrances, and now hear that essential oils are bad for skincare. What’s the truth about essential oils and skincare?

A: Let’s talk about essential oils. Plant based oils have been used by herbalists and physicians for centuries dating back to Ancient India, Greece, and Egypt and have withstood the test of time due to their aromatherapeutic properties. As skincare therapists, we implement aromatherapy into treatments to heighten guests' sensorial experiences, but there has been discussion recently about the safety of essential oils in skincare, which ones should and should not be used, and if they can be used diluted or undiluted. Considering that essential oils do affect skin cells, educating yourself about the different types and usages is important if you plan to use them. Though named oils for their texture, they are still light in weight with small molecules. Non-diluted, highly concentrated essential oils, also called neat oils, may cause irritation or dermatitis when applied directly to the skin. They can also trigger headaches and nausea when inhaled in large quantities. Here are some safety precautions for implementing essential oils:

• Always use essential oils that are in quality carrier oils. Mineral oil and cheap vegetal oils will not improve your skin and will hinder the positive effects. (For every 1 oz of carrier oil, there should be 6 drops of essential oils (a 1% dilution) or a maximum of 12 drops (2% dilution) to yield the best experience.
• Know which oils cannot be used for certain conditions. For example, Rosemary, Thyme, and Oregano are not recommended for pregnancy, and Lemon, Orange, and Bergamot should not be used on sensitive skin.
• Be mindful if you have sensitivities to certain aromas and avoid those in your products.
• Quality carrier oils like non-fragrant Safflower Oil, Squalane Oil, and Grapeseed Oil minimize the absorption level of essential oils, making skincare products containing them safe for application and inhalation. These carrier oils also have high concentrations of linoleic acid and antioxidant vitamins that protect the skin, enhancing the barrier without contraindications.

Since the epidermis is not easily penetrable, and absorption through hair follicles and sweat glands is insignificant due to their inherent outward flow, combining essential oils with carrier oils helps to minimize most issues. Products with essential oils can be quite relaxing and enjoyable. Soaking in a fragrant bath or using them as inhalation therapy helps create an aromatic journey, resulting in relaxation and a de-stressing experience. When we breathe essential oils in through the nasal passage, olfactory neurons send messages to the brain and limbic system, releasing neurochemicals, and stimulating reactions based on the oil intended. In closing, read your labels, understand what you’re using, and choose products from quality manufacturers. Remember, nearly everything can be enjoyed in moderation.


Q: How much sunscreen SPF do I need, and what type is best?

A: When choosing a sunscreen, read the label and know the terms. SPF stands for sun protection factor. This tells you how long it takes for your skin to redden with sunscreen compared to the time without sunscreen. So, if you use an SPF 15 product as directed (applied evenly and generously 20 to 30 minutes before sun exposure and reapplied every two hours or after sweating or swimming), it will take you 15 times longer to burn than if you weren’t wearing sunscreen. Water resistant is not waterproof. This is why reapplying sunscreen after sweating and swimming is a must. Choose a broad-spectrum sunscreen, which indicates that it will protect against UVA and UVB rays. Even if your skin is not sensitive, the better choice is a mineral-based sunscreen with ingredients like Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide. These minerals are known as physical sunscreens because they reflect the sun’s rays off the skin and usually have a thicker consistency, providing more thorough protection.

Chemical sunscreens like avobenzone and oxybenzone work by absorbing UV rays causing heat, which can irritate the skin. In 2020, the FDA reported on the results of an extended clinical study showing that chemical sunscreens like avobenzone and oxybenzone enter the bloodstream after a single application and can remain in the body for prolonged periods. But wait! Don’t be afraid of the sun! There are some positives to UV exposure. It stimulates Vitamin D synthesis needed to strengthen bones, muscles, and the body’s immune system. It prompts the pineal gland in the brain to produce chemicals that improve our mood, helps relieve psoriasis symptoms, and provides beautiful weather for outdoor fun. Taking the right precaution by deciding to wear sunscreen daily helps keep skin protected and healthy and helps mitigate accelerated aging.