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Live.Beauty.Full Expert Advice Blog

Ask The Esty

Ask The Esty

Pevonia Marketing Pevonia Marketing

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Q: If I could only buy one product which should it be?
A: If I had to choose one non-negotiable product, it would be broader protection sunscreen. Damage from the sun expedites the extrinsic aging process. Photodamage to cells and tissues happens immediately when you are exposed to the sun and creates cumulative damage, increasing damage to the skin and the risk of skin cancer. UVA rays are the longest, penetrating the dermis and breaking down protein fibers by stimulating MMPs (Matrix Metalloproteinases). MMPs play a vital role in remodeling the extracellular matrix and dermal support. These protein enzymes also break down old protein fibers so that new ones can be used. UV light triggers these enzymes, speeding up this process, which continues for many hours, even when direct sun exposure has ended. This results in compromised dermal thickness due to the breakage of collagen and elastin fibers. UVA rays penetrate through glass, so driving, sitting in an office next to a window, or even flying in a plane exposes the skin to damage.

UVB rays reflect off surfaces like sand, water, and shiny surfaces like city buildings. Known as the “burning rays,” they are 1,000x stronger than UVA rays, and when exposed to the skin, their wavelength damages the epidermis creating considerable amounts of heat. Thanks to technology, we now have another wavelength of exposure: blue light. Artificial visible light or blue light produced by screens (TVs, smartphones, tablets, computer monitors, etc.) have higher energy and shorter wavelengths than other colors in the visible light spectrum. In large amounts, it can cause digital eyestrain and macular degeneration. Gattefossé, a leading European researcher, found that blue light exposure causes skin damage, like pigmentation. Gattefossé studies also found that it damages fibroblast cells and mitochondria, weakening cell mobility and communication and causing cellular fatigue. This damage is reflected on the skin's surface, making the complexion appear sallow and dull. Choosing specialized sunscreens with UVA, UVB, and bluelight protection is essential. Pevonia’s protects you from bluelight, UVA, and UVB plus it’s safe for oceans and reefs!


Q: Why do lips tend to show signs of aging so early? How can I fix it?
A: After age 20, we lose about 1 percent of our skin collagen yearly. This isn’t worrisome for people in their 20s, but once those 40s roll around the corner, this change becomes more noticeable, especially in dynamic facial zones, like the mouth area. Other factors attributed to aging lips are the steadily diminishing fat pads and muscles around the lips, resulting in soft tissue redistribution. All of this results in thinner and flatter lips. Another major change in the lips as we age is the color tone and vibrancy. As the blood vessels in the lips and around the vermillion (the normally sharp demarcation between the lip and the adjacent normal skin) decrease, the richness of color fades, especially along the lip line. This causes a “blurred” line of demarcation, advancing the appearance of aging.  Let’s not forget that aging brings forth dryness all over the body, and the lips are not excluded. Plus, there are no sebaceous glands to keep the tissue soft and supple. Environmental factors, such as extreme hot or cold temperatures, wind, and lack of humidity, further contribute to dry, peeling lips.

So, how to repair lips and reinvigorate that youthful pout? Following three easy steps daily and giving yourself a weekly lip repair treatment will radically improve that pretty smile.

  1. Exfoliation: Depending on the severity of dryness and sensitivity, a gentle exfoliating cleanser may be used on and around the lips once or twice a week. Jojoba extracts work well to gently slough dry, excess skin off, revealing smooth lips. What lip balm ingredients to avoid? Salicylic Acid and cooling ingredients like Menthol and Camphor, which can remove moisture from the lips.
  2. Moisturizing: Applying a high-quality lip repair balm throughout the day and at night will help maintain moisture levels, preventing chapped, peeling lips. Look for natural, lipid-based ingredients like Vitamin E, Shea Butter, and Olus Oil to add moisture and protect the lips against free radical damage.
  3. Protection: For daily wear, select lipsticks with SPF, many are now formulated that way. According to a 2022 study, lip cancer comprises about 0.6% of all cancers in the United States. Avoid chemical sunscreen ingredients, like Octinoxate or Oxybenzone, and choose Zinc and Titanium Dioxide instead.

If your favorite lipstick is not formulated with an SPF, you can apply sunblock before applying your lipstick. Not only will you protect your pucker, but your lips will also look visibly moisturized and healthy due to the occlusive oils in the balm. If you want to smooth deeper lines on and around the mouth, a weekly treatment with lip repair products featuring Micro-Retinol and Collagen specially formulated for the delicate skin on your lips will intensively plump, redefine, and reveal a more youthful looking lip contour.


Q: Do I really need to use a toner? If so, how should I use one?
A: Toners were originally designed to be used as part of the cleansing process to adjust skin pH and remove any residual dirt, oil, cellular debris, and cleanser remnants not rinsed off completely during cleansing. Now, we have entered a new era of skincare where toners are formulated for multi-uses or based on formulas considered “essences” or “mists”that go beyond removing residues left behind.

As formulations become more cutting-edge, more cleansers are now water-soluble, pH balanced, and don’t contain stripping ingredients, freeing toners up to do more. Even if you cleanse properly, which means cleansing all areas of the skin with warm water and your fingertips for 30-60 seconds, your skin’s pH still becomes altered due to water disruption, especially if you are using hot water. Using a toner will help restore the pH more efficiently, while preparing the skin for other routine care products, like serums and moisturizers. Essences or mists are solutions that balance the skin’s pH from water rinsing and prepare the skin for further treatment. These “types of toners” are used for more delicate, drier skin types and conditions. When formulated with actives like fragmented Hyaluronic Acid and Aloe, they are like a moisturizing treatment on their own! They can be used twice a day after cleansing and before your serum and moisturizer or as a moisture-infusing face spraywhenever the skin needs a refresh. Perfect for spraying directly on the skin or splashing on the face, these moisturizing heroes are ideal for traveling or going to the beach or pool to help protect against the environmental circumstances that drain hydration from us.

Individuals with normal to oily, congested, oily, and acne-prone skin should focus on toners that contain ingredients that can help reduce excess oiliness, like Salicylic Acid. For those with visible signs of sun damage (roughness, lines, and wrinkles), a toner formulated to regulate cellular renewal, like Micro-Retinol®, is a good choice. Toners with these potent actives are best applied with a cotton round and not “splashed” or sprayed directly on the face, as they can get into the eyes, causing irritation. But, those with redness and irritation should seek out alcohol-free toners with ingredients like Chamomile and Licorice that can be spritzed or swiped to soothe discomfort.

Therefore, whether you choose a toner or an essence (moisturizing skin mist), be sure to add in the ideal toner. Not only will this ensure skin health by returning it to its natural pH, help address your specific conditions and concerns, but it will also prepare your skin for further treatment. Bring on intense moisture with this vital step in your self-care ritual!

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