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Live.Beauty.Full Expert Advice Blog

Ask The Doctor

Ask The Doctor

Pevonia Marketing Pevonia Marketing

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Q: What does hypoallergenic mean? Can you explain hypoallergenic labels on skincare products?
A: In the strict sense of the word, hypoallergenic means that something is less capable of producing allergies or adverse reactions. For a skin product, it means that the formulation is less likely to produce adverse reactions in most of the population when compared to another product in the same category. It relates to the ingredients in the formula and an individual's susceptibility. In most cases, manufacturers avoid formulating with certain known allergens (synthetic dyes, fragrances, preservatives, gluten, latex, etc.), with the intention of delivering a safer product. In instances when manufacturers cannot find a suitable alternative to an essential ingredient, they may utilize an extensive purification process, greatly reducing or eliminating controversial components to become hypoallergenic.

While a hypoallergenic label may bring a sense of relief or peace of mind, it is important to understand this is not a 100% guarantee. Some individuals with hypersensitive skin may still experience a reaction, and there is always the possibility of cross-contamination or unknown sensitivities to other components in the formula.


Q: What products are good for after chemical peels or microneedling procedures?
A: After experiencing a peel or microneedling, the skin is affected both on the surface and the inside layers. The timing of using post-procedure products is essential to optimize results. Immediately after either of these procedures, if the skin is irritated or inflamed, it becomes necessary to cool, soothe, and hydrate to calm swelling, tenderness, redness, or discomfort. Products that recuperate and protect the skin barrier while providing desensitizing benefits are ideal for an expedited recovery. Immediately after these procedures is the perfect time to allow certain actives to penetrate the skin more effectively. So, using serums or ampoules with targeted benefits is highly recommended, followed by the ideal corresponding moisturizer.

As a rule, the right selection of products will depend on the specific skin condition or concern and its response at the moment of treatment. Good and sound judgement should always prevail, and the choice of products varies depending on the actual purpose of peeling or microneedling the skin. If it is to refine texture and make the skin more youthful looking, then supporting products with rejuvenating ingredients are best (vitamin C, collagen and elastin peptides, hyaluronic acid, retinol, growth factors, etc.). If the goal is to lighten hyperpigmentation, then products that focus on lightening are ideal (tyrosinase inhibitors, sunscreen, etc.). As far as sunscreen, I suggest always using a high-quality, broad-spectrum non-comedogenic formula after every procedure (unless contraindicated).


Q: How do I know when it is time to move from preventive products to corrective products?
A: This is a great question, and the decision varies from person to person. Preventive products are great when someone is young and has no visible signs of aging on the face and body. Moving on to corrective products will depend on multiple factors such as genetics, lifestyle habits, illness or medications, and the condition of the skin, and more. For the most part, individuals used to start using products with corrective actions in their 40’s as they started seeing the first signs of aging becoming more permanent (lines and wrinkles around the eyes and on the forehead, dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and some loss of elasticity). Nowadays, widespread knowledge, social media trends, and influencers have prompted the “need” for using corrective products, as early as the 20s with collagen serums, retinol, botulinum toxin injections, or other topical alternatives.

The truth is that by starting with preventive products early on, you can then move to corrective products later in life since your skin will be better conditioned. This means that it will require less effort to stay more youthful looking in your latter years. However, if you elect to not use preventive products, smoke, refrain from using broad spectrum sunscreen, forego good sleep, or experience other detrimental factors like poor nutrition, illness, and even certain medications, the onset of aging signs will arrive sooner and the need for corrective products will arise much earlier.

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